When painting, I always start with transparent
pigments. You may add a
semi-transparent pigment to your mix; but DO NOT add an opaque pigment. Opaque pigments sit on top of your paper and
will move around as you add washes.
THIS will CREATE MUDespecially if the three primaries are involved!
Note: Most transparent paints are staining and do not lift
out completely.
Most manufacturers have small boxes on their tubes. I
* A white box indicates a transparent pigment; * a black box an opaque. * A split box – half white/half black tube indicates a semi-transparent pigment.
* A white box indicates a transparent pigment; * a black box an opaque. * A split box – half white/half black tube indicates a semi-transparent pigment.
Also, all pigments are given an alphanumeric code that is listed
on every Artist Quality tube of paint.
The pigment code is the same across all manufacturers unless the
manufacturer created the pigment. All
secondary colors are made with at least two pigments (ie. greens, oranges and
purples.) So if you like a color, you
may read the pigments listed on the tube, check your inventory and make your own if you wish.
If you buy sap green or alizarin crimson, make sure that the
tube says "permanent". Without permanent,
the paints are fugitive and are not lightfast.
Thank you for visiting, Linda
Linda C Miller Artist | Naturalist | Instructor
Copyright Linda C. Miller 2022
To receive my new posts visit The Botanical Blogger - SCROLL UP to the top and SIGN UP!